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Room 4 - Designs for Goldsmiths
The skills of German and Netherlandish metalworkers
were greatly prized in London; Henry VIII employed them
as armourers and clockmakers as well as goldsmiths. The
latter included Holbein’s collaborators Hans of Antwerp
and Cornelis Hayes. Jewellery and ornamental weapons
adorned with precious stones were much in demand, as
well as large and elaborate pieces which could be shown
off at court banquets.
Court taste now moved sharply towards Renaissance style
designs incorporating classical architectural motifs
as well as arabesques, acanthus leaves, garlands and
fantastic figures. This favoured Holbein’s extensive and
highly inventive decorative repertoire, derived partly from
Italian print sources and imbued with an extraordinary
sense of movement. Many of his designs must have
required particularly skilled goldsmiths.
Some of the drawings exhibited here show Holbein
at work: sketching alternative motifs and suggesting
different developments and combinations of the fantastic
figures he incorporated into his designs. Others are
evidently finished drawings, made for the approval of
the patron preparatory to the goldsmith’s work. None
of the precious metal objects Holbein designed survives
today. However, one of only three surviving pieces from
Henry VIII’s treasury is exhibited here, a magnificent
French clocksalt which has much in common with
Holbein’s designs.
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Wenceslaus Hollar (1607–77) after
Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Hans von Zürich (1647)
Lent by The British Museum, London
Etching on paper
185 x 130 mm
According to the inscription, Hans of Zürich
was a goldsmith and probably one of Holbein’s
craftsmen or merchant friends. Hollar’s etching
records a painted portrait by Holbein, now lost.
Hollar shows the date of the original painting as
1532, the year of Holbein’s return to London and
the period in which he was taking commissions
from the Hanseatic merchants.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Design for Anthony Denny's Clocksalt (1543)
Lent by The British Museum, London
Pen and black ink on paper with grey wash and
red wash on the compass
410 x 213 mm
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The inscription records that Anthony Denny gave
a clocksalt after this design to Henry VIII as a New
Year’s gift in 1545 (old calendar 1544). Two notes
are in the handwriting of the royal astronomer
Nikolaus Kratzer, who must have assisted Holbein
with the design.
In the centre of the clocksalt is an hourglass,
while on top two putti hold curved metal sheets
forming sundials. A clock with a blazing sun at
its centre rests on their heads, surmounted by a
crown. A compass, shown in the separate drawing
to the left, would have been placed above the
hour glass.
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Wenceslaus Hollar (1607–77) after Hans Holbein
the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Sir Anthony Denny (1647)
Lent by The British Museum, London
Etching on paper
133 x 108 mm
This etching of Sir Anthony Denny (1501–49) was
made by the Bohemian artist Wenceslaus Hollar
in 1647, from a portrait by Holbein in the collection
of the Earl of Arundel which is now lost. The
inscriptions indicate the original was painted in
1541, with Denny’s age given as twenty-nine; this
must be an error as Denny would have been
thirty-nine or forty at this date.
In 1538 Denny was promoted to the highest
position of attendance on Henry VIII, as one of
the King’s two chief gentlemen of the chamber.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
William Parr, Marquess of Northampton (about 1538–40)
Lent by Her Majesty The Queen
Black and coloured chalks with pen and Indian
ink, white bodycolour on pink prepared paper
317 x 212 mm
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William Parr (1513–71), the younger brother of
Queen Catherine Parr, became Marquess of
Northampton in 1547. The extensive colour notes
in Holbein’s hand show that he was dressed in
white satin and white and purple velvet. He also
wears a blank medallion suspended from a chain
and a fashionable hat badge (see the example in
the case nearby).
A sketch top left shows a figure in classical armour
who may be St George fighting the dragon; this
may be intended as the subject of the hat badge
rather than the medallion. Another sketch
indicates details of the links of a chain including
the word ‘MORS’ or ‘death’.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Roundels with Old Testament Scenes (about 1534–8)
Lent by the Kunstmuseum Basel, Kupferstichkabinett
Pen and black ink and chalk on paper
202 x 104 mm
The top three of these designs for jewelled
pendants illustrate the Old Testament story of
Hagar and Ishmael in the desert: their thirst
was relieved by an angel and the miraculous
appearance of a well, sketched separately on
the left. The fourth design shows Abraham making
a treaty with King Abimelech over an altar with
an inset jewel.
Starting with circles drawn with a compass,
as the hole visible in the empty circle top right
shows, Holbein invented three dynamic alternative
compositions, clarifying poses and details in
the sketches, as well as doodling comic figures
beside them.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Lady Meutas (about 1536)
Lent by Her Majesty The Queen
Black and coloured chalks on pink prepared paper
283 x 212 mm
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The startled-looking Joan or Jane Ashley or Astley,
Lady Meutas (died 1577), married the courtier
Peter Meutas before 9 October 1537.
To the right of the portrait drawing Holbein has
inserted a schematic sketch of hands, including
a heart-shaped leaf used by German painters as
a symbol for green; here it symbolizes an emerald
in a ring. The same sign also appears in the centre
of Lady Meutas’s large oval medallion. This is
sketched with a design closely resembling one
of Holbein’s three drawings for a Mary Magdalen
jewel shown nearby.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Three Drawings of the Penitent Mary Magdalen (about 1536)
Lent by the Kunstmuseum Basel, Kupferstichkabinett
Pen and black ink with grey wash on paper
44 x 57 mm
These three drawings of the penitent Mary
Magdalen in the wilderness were probably
originally on the same sheet but have been
cut out separately. A very similar image to one
of these drawings is seen in reverse on the
medallion worn by Lady Meutas in the drawing
shown nearby.
It is not clear whether Holbein had designed
such a medallion for Lady Meutas, which she then
wore in her portrait, or whether these drawings
might have been part of the preparation for her
portrait. In that case the variation would suggest
that this was an imaginary medallion rather than
an actual one.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Designs for Pendants (about 1540–3)
Lent by The British Museum, London
Pen and black ink with black wash background
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The pendant with a woman in Tudor dress has
been associated with the jewel worn in a portrait
of 1569 (Tate), which may represent Helena
Snakenborg, third wife of William Parr, Marquess
of Northampton (shown nearby); his family may
have commissioned the jewel.
Two of these designs, one of which includes
cornucopia, are similar to marriage pendants
and brooches known from surviving examples
and portraits of the late fifteenth century, probably
made in Germany for export.
Holbein may have been producing variants of
a well-known type for German goldsmiths in
London serving the English market.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Designs for Pendant Jewels (about 1536–8)
Lent by The British Museum, London
Pen and black ink with black, grey and light
brown wash, touched with bodycolour
enlarge this image
These very finished designs for pendant jewels
nearly all include either chains or ribbons. Henry
VIII wears similar pendants in his portraits by
Holbein (see Room 7). Holbein may have designed
these for him, but it also seems conceivable that
these drawings are records of actual objects
rather than designs, such as other court artists
of the period were instructed to make.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Design for a Frame (about 1533–6)
Lent by the Kunstmuseum Basel, Kupferstichkabinett
Pen and black ink over chalk on paper
154 x 104 mm
The crosses Holbein has drawn on the faces
of the small cherubs are first indications of the
foreshortening and direction of the figures in
this fluid working drawing. A mermaid adorns
the lower part of the frame, with a pearl below,
an indication of the small scale of the work. It
was perhaps intended to be worn on a chain to
frame a miniature, or was possibly intended as
a frame for a small mirror.
The dynamism of the design would have required
a highly skilled goldsmith.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Designs for Metalwork Covers and Caskets (about 1537)
Lent by The British Museum, London
Pen and black ink with black, grey and yellow
wash on paper
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All five designs were evidently intended to be
executed in black enamel over gold, allowing
the gold to create a series of newly fashionable
interlaced arabesque designs.
The two book covers feature clasps to close the
book and a ring by which such small books were
usually attached to a woman’s girdle (see the
examples in the case nearby). Both books bear
the initials ‘T’, ‘W’ and ‘I’, which probably stand for
those of Sir Thomas Wyatt the Younger and his
wife Jane Haute, who were married in 1537.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Covered Cup, Inscribed with the Name
of Hans of Antwerp (about 1537?)
Lent by the Kunstmuseum Basel, Kupferstichkabinett
Pen and black ink over chalk, grey wash on
paper; right-hand side offset
251 x 164 mm
The inscription refers to the London goldsmith
Hans of Antwerp, named in Holbein’s will of 1543.
On top of the lid is a female figure representing
Truth, shown from three different angles to ensure
that the goldsmith could replicate it in three
dimensions.
Holbein drew only the left hand side of the
drawing, folding it vertically to create a
mirror-image on the right-hand side by offsetting,
transferring the outlines by pressure.
The cup was presumably made to be presented
by Hans of Antwerp himself, possibly in connection
with his application for the freedom of the
Goldsmiths’ Company in 1537.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Covered Cup with Dolphins (1532–6)
Lent by the Kunstmuseum Basel, Kupferstichkabinett
Pen and black ink and grey wash over chalk
on paper
183 x 100 mm
This very finished drawing makes extensive use
of wash to give a three-dimensional appearance,
mimicking the gleam of metal on the bowl of the
cup and representing the shadow underneath
the ball feet.
The drawing has the appearance of a presentation
drawing rather than one a goldsmith could work
from: it is difficult to know whether the form of
the cup is round or oval, and without further feet
it would be unstable.
The dolphins are taken from a print by the Italian
Zoan Andrea and were a fashionable motif for
metalwork: compare the decoration of the
instrument case shown nearby.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Design for a Table Fountain with the Badge
of Anne Boleyn (1533)
Lent by the Kunstmuseum Basel, Kupferstichkabinett
Pen and black ink over chalk on paper
251 x 164 mm
Only the upper part of this large piece is shown in
this drawing with its carefully hatched indications
of light and shade. The badge of Anne Boleyn, the
crowned white falcon with Tudor roses growing
from a tree stump, is visible between the satyrs
who support the top. At the base standing women
squeeze their breasts to let water flow.
The drawing closely resembles the description of
a table fountain decorated with rubies and pearls
given to Henry VIII by Anne Boleyn at New Year
1534.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Table Ornament with Jupiter (about 1533–6)
Lent by the Kunstmuseum Basel, Kupferstichkabinett
Pen and black ink over chalk on paper
265 x 125 mm
This vigorous working drawing for an elaborate
table fountain includes female figures with water
issuing from their breasts. At the top is the figure
of Jupiter with an eagle, hurling a thunderbolt,
while just below people dance around an altar.
Winged caryatids support the base.
Traces of chalk lines show Holbein first establishing
the proportions, while beside the main sketch he
reworked and clarified details of parts, such as the
altar with a fire in the top left.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
and Workshop?
Design for a Cup for Jane Seymour (1536–7)
Lent by the The British Museum, London
Pen and point of the brush and black ink on
white paper
376 x 155 mm
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This is the preliminary design for a magnificent
gold cup evidently intended to be given by
Henry VIII to Queen Jane Seymour; they married
on 30 May 1536. The Queen’s motto, ‘bound to
obey and serve’, is repeated on the lid and on
the foot, while the King and Queen’s initials are
intertwined with love knots.
Holbein began by drawing the left hand side
of the design, and also made a number of
alterations. The right hand side is more hastily
executed, and might be the work of an assistant,
who had difficulty with the proper spacing of the
initials H and I.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
and Workshop?
Design for a Cup for Jane Seymour (1536–7)
Lent by the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford, Douce Bequest, 1834
Ink and chalk on paper with grey and pink washes
and gold heightening
376 x 155 mm
This drawing shows the final design for Queen
Jane Seymour’s cup. The alterations seen in the
initial design are reflected in this more elaborate
drawing, where the arabesques are strengthened
in vigour and the projecting antique busts are
more detailed. However, not all the details of the
initial design are well understood, suggesting
the involvement of an artist other than Holbein.
A ‘faier standing cuppe of gold garnished with
diamounts and pearls’ with the motto, ‘H and J
knytt togethers’ and a cover matching the details
of this design is described in the inventory of
Henry VIII.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Five Designs for Dagger Hilts and Pommels (about 1536–8)
Lent by The British Museum, London
Pen and black ink with grey wash on paper
enlarge this image
Holbein has shaped the pommels and guards
of these highly-finished designs from a variety
of motifs in his repertoire, fitting grotesque heads,
musicians, acanthus leaves, scaly tentacles and
rams’ horns with flowing ease into the required
forms of the dagger hilts.
The designs are similar to the ceremonial dagger
worn by Henry VIII in the cartoon for the Whitehall
wall painting (Room 5) and suggest the design of
such weaponry was among Holbein’s tasks as
court artist.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Design for a Dagger (about 1534–8)
Lent by The British Museum, London
Brush drawing in black ink on paper
455 x 126 mm
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The drawing for a baselard, a ceremonial dagger
worn suspended from a girdle, is exceptionally rich
in its ornamentation with jewels and figures. It is
the only record of a design for a complete weapon
by Holbein including both hilt and blade.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Design for a Dagger Hilt (about 1534–8)
Lent by the Kunstmuseum Basel, Kupferstichkabinett
Pen and ink over chalk preparatory drawing on paper
184 x 141 mm
In this drawing Holbein sketches the principal
ideas for the hilt of the dagger, incorporating
arching male figures left and right with serpent
tails which stretch and twist around the projecting
sides of the hilt.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Design for a Sword Hilt (about 1534–8)
Lent by the Kunstmuseum Basel, Kupferstichkabinett
Pen and ink over chalk preparatory drawing
on paper
201 x 151 mm
This design for the hilt of a sword incorporates
similar motifs to those of the design for the
dagger and develops the ideas of a curling tail
and a cornucopia more strongly. The stages of
Holbein’s work are clearly visible, from the initial
chalk outlines to the details worked over in pen.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Offset of a Design for part of a Dagger
or Knife (about 1534–8)
Lent by the Kunstmuseum Basel, Kupferstichkabinett
Pen and ink, grey wash on paper
208 x 90 mm
This design is not an original drawing but an
offset, a record of an original created by pressure.
It records lost alternative designs for the hilt of
the dagger. It may itself have been produced by
assembling several different drawings onto a
single sheet.
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Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8–1543)
Design for a Chimney-piece (about 1538–40)
Lent by The British Museum, London
Pen and ink with grey, blue and red wash on paper
539 x 470 mm
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This drawing provides the only evidence that
Holbein made architectural designs in England.
It shows an elaborate fireplace with roundels,
including figures of Charity as a mother with
children on the left, blind Justice on the right and
a battle scene between them. Below is a roundel
with Esther before Ahasuerus, surrounded again
by a battle scene.
The royal coat of arms indicates that the design
was made for Henry VIII but it is not known for
which of his palaces it was intended, or whether
it was ever constructed.
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