In 1964, Bert Stern produced an image of fashion photographer David Bailey lying on the ground snapping his model Veruschka von Lehndorff towering over him. The photograph anticipates the more aggressive relationship between photography, fashion and celebrity that marked much of the 1970s and 1980s. Celebrity photographers resorted to more aggressive tactics to get exclusives. Ron Galella, whose unauthorised images of Woody Allen and Mia Farrow, Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall are shown here, is one of the most renowned American paparazzi.
Photography was increasingly a platform for political statement and social protest, such as Richard Avedon’s portrait of the Chicago Seven. This group of anti-Vietnam war activists were accused of instigating a demonstration at the Democratic Party convention that ended in violence. Avedon took them off the streets and into the studio, posing them as if they were pop stars.
In Tokyo, Daido Moriyama and Nobuyoshi Araki forged highly experimental street photography practices. Moriyama’s raw and gritty images show a disturbing urban society. Araki’s early conceptual work Tokyo paired images of passers-by taken on the streets with erotically staged pictures of a young woman, often taken indoors. Like Robert Mapplethorpe, Araki has been regularly accused of treading over the contested line between art and pornography.