This page contains advice to Turner on travelling in Italy in preparation for the artist’s first tour of the country in 1819. The author of the inscription is James Hakewill (1778–1843), with whom Turner collaborated on the engraved print project, Picturesque Tour of Italy, published 1820 (see the introduction to the sketchbook). The text was first transcribed by Finberg,1 and is repeated here with minor variations:
the Brera – The Hospital. | The Cathedral, | Palace | Church of St. Ambrose. | Library – Do – | Amphitheater – | Last supper of Leonardo da Vinci. | Mem: Baccala will give you a letter | of introduction to houses in his | line at Genoa &c &c. and having
The subject of the notes is a list of the main sights and attractions in Milan, which commenced on folio 5 (D13867). Hakewill had himself visited the city in 1816–17, and several views can be found amidst his drawings from this time (British School at Rome Library).2 Despite deviating from Hakewill’s suggested itinerary and entering Italy via the Pass of Mont Cenis, Turner’s chosen route also took him to Milan, where these recommendations may have come in useful, see the Milan to Venice sketchbook (Tate; Turner Bequest CLXXV). Hakewill’s notes continue on folio 7 (D13871).