Taste Etc: Savouring the Moment

Mom loved good food. She was born into a prominent political family in Beirut where meals were generous and appetising, the table was exquisitely set every day, and pleasure to the eyes was of equal importance to that of the palate. Her own mother was an excellent pastry chef, and almost all her family members were overweight. How could one resist nibbling when surrounded by so many sources of temptation?

Her parents’ home welcomed everyone who came. The large kitchen was bustling all year long: day and night, a brigade of cooks prepared meals for family and friends, as well as the unceasing stream of visitors passing through. There were delicious sweets to be found on almost every table. Yet, the sensuous delights of such treats stood in stark contrast to the tense political atmosphere that reigned in the household. Perhaps it was a form of compensation.

Later, in Paris, where my mother moved in 1970 before achieving recognition and success as an artist, frugal meals alternated with feasts, depending on whether mom was eating in her studio, or was invited out by family or friends. One morning, she asked me to join her for lunch at her studio with an old family friend, a former president of the Lebanese Republic from before the civil war, when the country still resembled paradise. I asked what she planned to serve, and she responded, ‘Two soft-boiled eggs and a baguette.’ Noticing my surprise, she added, ‘That’s all I have. He’s coming to see me, not to eat.’

After relocating to California in 1987, many celebrations were marked at either her table or mine. In her kitchen in Venice, Los Angeles, decorated by a blue and yellow fresco that she had painted, I prepared numerous meals for charity events. In her studio, we served banquets to friends in celebration of their birthdays or exhibition openings. Mom had the ability to be present while immersed in the creation of a new piece. She always took time to enjoy daily meals and the occasional glass of aged whiskey at the end of the day.

I remember so fondly her voice, and the sparkle in her eyes, every time she told me, ‘I would love your cheese soufflé.’

Mom’s beloved cheese soufflé

Serves 4–5

_{^{› 70g butter (plus more for greasing)}}

_{^{› 70g flour}}

_{^{› 480ml milk}}

_{^{› 6 egg yolks}}

_{^{› 200g cheese (cheddar, gruyère and/or parmesan)}}

_{^{› Salt and pepper}}

_{^{› A pinch of nutmeg (optional)}}

_{^{› 8 egg whites}}

_{^{› 50g finely grated parmesan}}

Preheat your oven to 200°C (400°F). In a saucepan, melt the butter and then add the flour. Cook for three to four minutes while stirring with a wooden spoon. When the mixture starts smelling like a crêpe dough, add the milk little by little while whisking. Bring it to a delicate boil.

Remove the mixture from the heat and let it rest for about two minutes before adding the egg yolks one at a time and beating in. Add the cheese in small chunks and allow to melt into the mixture fully while mixing. Add salt and pepper to taste – and, if you wish, a pinch of nutmeg.

In a bowl, beat the egg whites to stiff peaks. Using a spatula, fold them delicately into the mixture in three batches.

With a brush, butter the insides of a large soufflé dish (suitable for four to five servings), or alternatively prepare five individual ramekins. Coat the inside of the preferred container thoroughly with the finely grated parmesan. Fill the dish or ramekins three quarters of the way with the mixture, then wipe the remaining quarter with a paper towel (this will allow the soufflé to rise evenly).

Place in the oven and cook for 15 to 18 minutes if using individual ramekins, or 30 to 35 minutes if using a large soufflé dish. Serve immediately.

^{Flirt I–X were presented by the artist in 2017. They are on loan to the first European retrospective of Huguette Caland’s work, A Life in a Few Lines, which opened at Reina Sofia, Madrid in February 2025 and continues at Deichtorhallen, Hamburg until 26 April 2026.}

^{Brigitte Caland has a PhD in Language and Civilization from INALCO, Paris and a master’s degree in Art Criticism and Curatorial Studies from USJ, Beirut. She is also a professional cook interested in food history. Her most recent book, Writing in the Work of Huguette Caland, is published by Kaph Books.}